Category Archives: My projects

Projects I have built myself

Glass top coffee table

My buddy was after a coffee table that was fit with a thick glass top, hairpin legs and some solid metal corners. This design is pretty cool and really strong. Inside of that “U” shaped carcass there is a 18mm hardwood ply as a base. Glued and screwed before planked all over gives a nice and thick design and a cool look to it as well.

Planks are mostly reclaimed pine cut in different sizes and coming together into a blocked design pattern. Metal corners have been welded out of a piece of 90 degree corner, that was some fun and fair amount of grind work to bring to a smooth finish, but they look the part and give a nice accent.

Holes were later drilled on the side of these bad boys to keep them in place on top of the glass top. Nice idea to attach the top without compromising desing. Black paint on them-manufacturer`s.

The glass itself was a challenge to acomplish. I have bought 3 pieces that all delivered with some kind of damage, scratch of bubbles trapped inside of glass. Not really a quality for any project. After all I decided to drive and pick it up myself to make sure no damage was done to it while delivering to my shop.

In  order to transport the glass top to my shop, I have built a box out of an old table top. If you ever do any project with this type of top, make sure the glass is spotless, wipe it with windex before you accept to spot any imperfections before you install. Also, this glass is super tough, but it will shatter if hit with something right on the edge or corner.

The final product was really nice, strong and walnut stain that was target sanded with fine grid exposed some colours of natural wood through. This technique I have been using on most of my projects where colour was applied. This gives a nice touch and makes the piece look a lot more interesting.

Few coats of clear matt varnish were applied as a means of protecting the wood, overall really nice table in my opinion.

Pete

 

 

Couple of recent projects

These 2 bad boys do not have a proper post, I was too buys to shoot pics in order to make this into a post.  Both projects are made out of scaffo boards and reclaimed wood. First is a house storage my wife requested, she had few boxes and needed a shelve unit to accommodate them. Teak finish light sand and varnish.

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I had a set of really nice steel wheels in the shop, these make this look a little more on the rustic side.

Second project I had just finished was a really unique tv stand ordered by one of my frequent client. It combines on “s” like board design, only supported by one vertical board located in the back of the unit. This part is quite unique and it is not much visible, makes this unit an interesting idea. I have placed very long wood screw like rods inside to support the shelves.

I will post better pics. soon, sometimes I get too busy to properly document my work, sorry guys.

P.

 

Hairpin legs coffee table.

This table I have done for one of my new clients. She requested a really nice pattern on the top and black/matt 14″ hairpin legs.  I have put 18mm strong, good quality ply underneath the planks and followed up with design. It was tricky to keep this pattern very well measured throughout the built, any mm each side would result with a big gap at the very end.

I applied some touches with teak stain to make these sawmill marks pop up a bit and natural oak was the final finish before applying several coats of clear/matt varnish for protection. I really like the final result, but most importantly the fact, that my client is happy.

P.

 

Bar interior, recent client.

This project I have completed just recently, new pub opened up in the city, owner has also a brewery, quite good beer I must add. The interior looks really cool, all around the wood, reclaimed/scaffo theme, all comes along nicely.

The atmosphere inside is vibrant and it looks almost always busy. My part was to build a side bar, located by brick wall, a big mirror that was installed in the upstairs dining room and over the back bar shelving units.

Side bar is made out of long ( 3m each) scaffo boars, I have purchased at a local building supplies store. I have applied black spray paint and sanded through before applying a natural oak stain and varnish. Then it was placed on 33.4 mm scaffo frame, all very sturdy and looking nice I think. (blowing my own horn here).

The mirror was bought new on ebay and placed on the ply before I had scaffo boards (same finish) built around it as a frame. The challenge was to make some really flat, yet super strong mountings that would keep this baby up on the wall well secured. I have cut a metal corner into half and drilled some holes in it. One side was fitted with adjustable mounting, when you drill into a brick, it is not uncommon for the drill to slightly slip, then you put the piece up-to find out it is crooked,  then you`re in trouble trying to explain extra holes in the wall.

The over the bar shelve units-are 2, couple of meters long boxy like pieces. All built with the same material as the rest of the projects I have done here. Same finish, high enough to accommodate bottles, we had tiny room to make this work, but eventually got it all lined up nicely. The same fittings were used as for the mirror with bolts super heavy, it is not going anywhere even fully loaded.

Sorry for just few pics, but when you are working and forgot to take as you go, coming to a pub full of people and start snapping away photos, it freaks people out.

Great place, nice projects, overall super cool place.

P.

 

Beam of light:)

This is a really fun project, the same owner that I had made the counter for, had an idea of reclaimed wood beam, that is fit with spot lights.

I have purchased at a local reclaimed wood centre a long-3.2m beam of wood, that needed a fair amount of work to bring the natural beauty out it.

I have removed all nails, and started scraping the surface, and while I was going intense with that-a pretty colour started coming through this rough looks.

Once the surface was ready, the fun part comes in, I needed to drill fat holes, big enough to accommodate a spot light, allow enough room for the LED light bulb. That cost me a corded drill, too weak, burnt after second hole. These being kinda deep, needed a fair amount of chipping out-the old fashioned way-with a mullet and a chisel.

Spacing out the spot lights is the next step, then wiring line had to be chiselled out with only a mullet and a chisel. These projects have a lot of surprises in the form of hidden nails, using your expensive power tools to get the job done quicker might cos you dearly.

All being installed inside of this wooden beam, just few items left before delivery. I have placed some extra features that made the wiring supported, thick galvanized chain and 4 point mounts-the beam is really heavy and it will be hanging over the counter.

Few coats of clear, quality varnish and it is ready to deliver. The new, awesome, Caribbean takeaway place in Welling, London will be fitted with this light.

And this is how it ended up looking like, quite happy with that…

Really interesting project, tons of manual labour due to the nature of the material-reclaimed wood, that had some nails in it-no use of power tools, but looks nice.

Cheers

 

P.

Counter for a local restaurant

I have not updated my work site for a while, was super busy. I have just completed a project for a local restaurant nearby. The owner wanted a service counter, something that would function as a customer service/cashier piece. Made out or reclaimed wood (mostly) and within the theme of the dining room.

I have made a frame out of purchased timber, added some good quality plywood for the inner walls.

After that it was the time to plank the walls and internal shelves with some rustic wood, glue, nails and level-that is pretty important, if you do not control the level, you might find yourself off on one end, and the whole wall looks crooked.

We have decided that the split level will come with a wooden top, no food or water will be serving over that part, so reclaimed wood, stain and varnish will be a spot on option.

The split level is to serve as a back wall for a till, and to keep some items out of the customer way. I think this is a very functional design, looks nice as well.

All piece was varnished and lightly sanded through with some 800 grid to give this nice, rustic appearance, one coat of teak oil was applied at the end.

 

The only thing that is still to be installed, is a stone top, for the part where food will be handled, dark stone I believe is the choice, I will get some pictures soon, a lot better quality as well.

And this is how the whole project looks like inside of the restaurant. It was placed on small concrete blocks, to avoid contact with water and harsh, floor chemicals. Black, cool looking stone was installed on the part where food is served. Really nice piece, at the new, super tasty Caribbean joint, just opened in Welling, London.

P.

Baby cot, 3-wall levelled with mum`s bed.

My baby girl is growing so fast and moses basket is getting too small by the day. I have purchased 8 long boards at a local timber store, all dried and almost sterile for this project as babies like to munch on everything, it is expected for her to bite the cot as well.  When buying wood-take your time, choose ones that are most straight, you will be glad that you did later on. Especially if you do not own a thickness planer just yet;)

First you gotta cut all boards to size, using table saw and chop saw I made all cuts, sometimes I had to straighten some boards before I cut them to make sure I do not waste too much material.

Clean the boards before glue up, the saw dust can collect and make the panel crooked. I have glued the floor panel first, the temp outside comes up to 30 degrees and wood glue will dry pretty quick, few hours (4-6) later is good to go.

The floor panel is ready. There are few tiny cracks in there, which will be fixed using a nice trick I have picked up from one of my wood gurus-Izzy Swan on Youtube. If you take regular wood glue and put some into this crack, pack it in with your finger, then take some saw dust and do the same. It will close the gap and while sanding it down you will make this virtually impossible to spot.

Then there was time for side panels. I have repeated the method with one small difference: all boards will be routed on the sides to give an impression of division. Makes the panel look cool and does not have much impact on strength itself.

The bottom part (on demand of my girlfriend) had to be cut into half circle. I do not have a device to measure a perfect shape, but Youtube was helpful again, this is how you can make a compass of any size using a piece of scrap wood, screw and a pencil:

Then it is sanding and side boards installation that will make the cot much more sturdy and better looking as well.

I also made a empty wall under panel that will make this whole project strong better looking (no pics, forgot;() and cut the bolts to size with a reciprocating saw, later on I will paint the hardware black.

There you go, almost finished. I had learnt a very painful lesson working on this project. I was aware that wood (even dried) will contract or expand to some extend in order to adapt to the moisture in the air. Last week we experienced a wave of heat (over 35 Celsius) and inside my shop container I am sure, the temp rose up to 50 maybe more. I had left my panels for few days and after coming back-they all looked like a letter U. They bent like a pretzel. I managed to fix it up to a large extend, but it was horrible to see how much extra work I had to do. From now on-always clamp your glue ups to the work bench if you are leaving them inside of a scorching hot environment or any extreme circumstances for that matter.

I do debate whether I should install a frame for my tablet or not. I do not let my girl watch any TV, but you can put audio on it, e books, or just a cartoon of YOUR choice for her. Not sure, will see and post it here.

to be continued…

 

P.

 

Coffee maker out of iron pipe and wood

This project is an original idea by Ben Uyeda-one of the people that truly inspires me in my wood working projects, you can find this at homemademodern, Ben`s website.

I used a piece of really nice wood for that, small board I had laying around my shop for a while. Iron pipe elements are simply screwed together-no need for any glues-this is not a hard bashing furniture.

First thing to do was to drill some holes for the glass tubes-wide 22 and a cordless drill took care of that-keep in mind not to drill through your bench tough.

The rest of it is really walk in the park, screw the iron pipes elements, screw them into the wooden deck and viola-job done.

The glass tubes needed some corks-I used wine cork, just needed to slim it down on my belt sander.

One, actually 2 last things to finish it off- put some teak oil to enhance the wood grain and clear coat-2, maybe 3 coats to make sure you can spill as much coffee on it as you like and not damage it.

All done, quick job.

P.

 

 

 

 

 

Sliding door project

This project is something I have been  working currently. Last few days I spent on building the support wall. Previously I had prepared most of my wood in my shop. I managed to reclaim some of the building materials, some I had to purchase-like 2×4`s and plywood to put under wall`s mosaic.  Every field trip is a lot more challenging as you have to transport a lot of equipment from your shop-big help is a detailed list made ahead of time, driving back through London in traffic to pick up something can be a pain in the butt.

Big help in building the mosaic wall is preparing all the planks to the same size, width and thickness, length will be adjusted on site. That makes the life a lot easier, although you must spend some time at the table saw.

Framing was the first thing to go-all the rest of it will be installed on that frame. Simple joinery, reinforced butt joints will serve the purpose. Light cherry sand wood varnish/stain was applied onto the frame.

Next step was the plywood screwed onto the frame support beams inside-I have installed them onto the wall and to the frame itself to give it a bit more strength.  Plywood is held by screws-no nails or glue-I wanted to make this project possible to reclaim back at some point in the future.

Planks go next, all pre-cut and pre-sanded needed just a cut to length, some glue and a nail gun to find their way onto the wall.  I have chosen many different types of wood for these,  many colours, all naturally aged, nail holes and cracks bring some cool character.

Teak oil was the last part for this section, brings the colours up a lot, at the very end, clear coat will be applied onto the whole project.

Next part was building the door-long boards and a vertical slit for the glass panel were put together with pocket screws. Top and bottom horizontal boards made this a lot more sturdy and provided additional support for the hardware.

These boards were reclaimed from shipping company in my local area, sanded and teak oiled to intensify natural colours, nothing else. Being in close proximity to a mosaic wall they had to be simple and natural looking, otherwise this whole project would look like a mish-mash.

The only things that are still coming are door handle and a glass panel, it was a fun project.

P.

Kitchen spice rack

Sunday morning on the way to my shop ( yah, I am dork working on Sunday) I found this cool and fresh long board pallet. I decided to use this for a project for my kitchen-a spice rack. Wood was really fresh and completely dry, it must have been indoors and just disposed, maybe hours before I came across.

It took me about 15 minutes to break it down and take it to my shop for de nailing process.  After that I cut it to size and trimmed edges on my table saw to make sure I can put them together into a nice and fit wall. I also sanded the back with 40 grid, to make the bottom side nice and smooth.

I have then started applying colours on top side of the UNSANDED boards, black chalkboard spray paint is the way to go, it is super easy and dries in seconds.

Make sure not to spray too thick, as this will prolong the sanding process and time, before you get the desired look.

All sprayed and sanded smooth with 180 grid and an orbital sander. Some cast iron elements will  make this more practical and improves the looks a lot. I will put some hooks on that pipe for pans and other stuff to hang on.

Before assembly, last thing I did was to stain the boards separately and then sand them with 180 to give them tile like looks. If you do that before you assemble the wall-you will be able to expose the edges, otherwise it would be impossible to get that once all boards are tied together into a wall.

I used pocket hole screws and glue to bind the boards into a wall, then I installed a natural wood trim around it. The only thing left to install were couple of shelves for spices and jars. At the very end I put a fair amount of teak oil over it to make the colours more vibrant and that`s it really. The whole unit is super light, and will be a nice addition to my kitchen. Later on, I have changed my mind and installed a shorter piece of pipe on one end, just to make it a bit smaller. And the piece that sticks out-it is for my kitchen apron or a cloth-I always misplace those while cooking:)

It turned out quite good in my opinion, and it was a fun way to recycle some perfectly good wood, probably a day or two from a landfill.

P.

 

 

Display units for another shop owner.

These units are part of the new clothing design shop that will be soon open at Elephant and Castle. I picked them up (4 in total) in order to give them a bit of a rustic up scale.

The owner chose to build the small boards all around the units, I carefully selected many types of wood for this project so after it is all done and sanded, it does get this colour distinctive effect. Boards were cut to small size, so the entire project was truly time consuming and labour intense, but it was well worth it.

I also installed some shelving in one of the units and 2 sets of led light tape in others. The warm white light really gives away this nice glow without altering the colours of clothing inside.

Teak oil was applied over all wooden elements to bring the colours up a bit and some clear satin varnish to protect the wood.

Fun project, it is a way to keep your favourite furniture and give the a make over to fit their new environment, the rustic way off course:)

P.

 

Iron pipe table, work in progress.

This shop style table is made out of reclaimed boards that have been coloured with black chalkboard spray paint and few different kinds of stains. All saw mill marks are preserved and after application of stain-they nicely pop out making each board look unique. Mosaic is installed on a piece of thin plywood that I had in my shop, and bottom is reinforced with long, thick board running across to the top design, giving the whole piece super strong quality.

It is a good idea to paint the base plywood with similar colour as the top, or at least close to it, if there are any tiny gaps between the boards, it will naturally blend with the whole top.

All these boards look pretty much the same-plain and rough, but through application of spray paint BEFORE sanding it down-paint stays in the board, especially inside the saw mill groves preserving these cool features.

To be continued…

Pipes and light.

Finally some stuff started coming along. My dad helps me out with cast iron elements, and some items that are difficult to buy in UK. This lamp is made out of new elements, fitted with Edison light bulb that gives nice, warm, slightly orange colours. Standard E14 can accommodate any light bulb, ON/OFF switch on top has a super easy access.  I bought really cool looking twisted 3 core wiring, antique braided, black, fitted with additional switch ON/OFF and led indicator at the main plug.

This can serve as a desk lamp or night lamp, it can even be disassembled for storage as the elements are fitted tight but not glued at all.

This Item is for sale: £ 120 including P&P (UK only).

There is a lot more coming “down the pipe” 😉

 

P.

 

Cast iron wheel wall lamp.

I have made this lamp from a very unique, aged wood I picked up a while ago, comes from the attic refurbishment, full of rusty nails and beautiful colour. Only light sanding is allowed in order to preserve this colour, 80 grid to start and 180 to finish, plus some hand sanding. These boards were not planned so they are slightly bent, but a naked eye can not pick this up.

The wheel comes from Poland, my dad actually bought this for me and sent it over. Those items are kind of pricey here, you are looking to spend about £ 40 on a block itself.  Twisted yellow wire, brass light bulb fixture and a wall hook to get the wire nice and straight.

Really cool project, still awaiting the cage for the light bulb ( Edison bulb), miter cuts on each board and nothing but teak oil to bring the colours up a bit.

This item is for sale- £ 120 including delivery ( UK only)

P.

Lift company and free wood.

These fresh, thick pine boards come from a company that sells commercial lifts. Each lift comes in a big wooden box, made out of rough wood, fresh from the mill, yes-with all blade marks that are so sought after.

These guys are super nice and let me harvest these boards on regular basis, break them, de nail them and dry them-ready to use. They are happy as well, some of these boards are broken and not very fit to use by them again, so I clean them up….and this is where they end up:

This unit is made out the boards I reclaimed from that lift company. Light sanding makes it soft to touch, but all mill marks, saw marks were saved to give this piece a real rustic unit. Metal corners and 5 meter led light installed in the back of the wall bring nice touch and serves the dual purpose, lights up the room and led lights  take next to nothing of electricity. Walnut combo-stain/varnish looks really cool. I highly recommend these products, you get the colour you want and protection in on swing.

P.

Candle tea light bookshelf.

I made this to complete my fiancée`s idea, a bookshelf unit that can hold tea light candles at the same time. Cool, unique as well.   100% reclaimed timber, thick boards painted with black chalkboard paint and sanded smooth. Some hardware on the corners and black chain makes it pop up a bit.

This unit is for sale (made to order) for £65 including shipping.

P.

Reclaimed wood, hairpin legs tv stand.

This is my latest project, one of my clients requested this interesting looking tv stand, 3-pin legs and x/x double wall-top and inside being different pattern.

Material for this project (except legs) is 100% reclaimed timber, inside being pallet wood and outer boards I reclaimed from a  lift shipping company in London.

Really solid piece, quite chunky but this was the whole idea. Walnut in dark was layered inside, and outside target sanding brings more natural look of the wood, making those 2 contrast each other quite nicely.

P.

 

Counter top for the store, piece by piece puzzle like design.

This is by far the biggest project I have done. 2 piece counter top for a shop in Greenwich London turned out to be a challenge and successfully  accomplished last night.

The entire design consists of recycled wood and some store bought items. Not everything can be salvaged when it comes to building materials, some stuff you just have to buy. Plywood for walls of the body and for top had to be bought at B&Q along with several items like nails, stains, paints etc.

The carcass is built out of 2×4`s cut in half, one front piece and one funky angled side piece-that last one was not an easy thing to make, to make sure all angles are correct.  Then a sheet of plywood was glued and nailed on it to provide a study building block for the wooden mosaic that goes on top of the walls.

My client was interested in keeping the looks of a weathered, old-ish looking wood that you can find in old pallets. The problem with that was the amount of wood-it is not an easy thing to find old looking pallets but with the healthy wood underneath. I had to come up with some way to recreate this look-the artificial way.

Youtube comes to rescue again-it is like a mine of ideas from all over the world-chalkboard paint on rough board and target sanding will bring that effect in no time.

This is one of the ways to age wood in the grey colours, sort of like an old, time punished pallet. You spray this paint onto ROUGH board-do not sand it before paint application, paint needs to sink into the pores of wood. Then pick up your sander and reveal back some wood from underneath the paint and viola-old, grey looking board ready to work.

There is another way (this time my idea) if you have a hard time getting black chalkboard paint-shoe shine in spray will get you the same looks! Funny but it works though, same procedure, same effect.

That spray with some black shoe sine in it will do the job just fine-sand it through and you got an old board-from the scratch (kind of a oxymoron here)

After installing the plywood walls I painted them grey-it is usually a good idea to paint the wall for any mosaic in the colours that match the final wall colour. In case your boards have any bows, curves etc. that make the space between the tile visible-that colour from underneath will nicely blend in as oppose leaving it bright brown or while-no one will notice it much-unless the gap is really big-then you go and fix that f-up.

Inside of the counter a shelve made out of recycled wood and treated with teak oil to bring nice colours.

This entire counter top had to be designed in a way that makes it possible to take both parts apart in order to deliver. Both were screw together at the store and no glue was applied-this way it can be dismembered at will and removed or relocated.

The very outward corner was interlocked and screwed from the inside-no need for glue-this made a very tight construction.

This way is nearly impossible to track the exact wood connection- and makes it more interesting that face to face meeting point.

Top was made out of solid, wide pine boards, treated exactly the same way with chalkboard paint and sanding. The only difference was that there was no oil applied on top, just clear coat varnish for protection-thus the natural grey colour remained.

Walls were treated with boiled linseed oil that changed the colours a bit, but brought out the grains and intensified the looks. ( will post some pictures soon)

This project was a lot of work though, every piece of board for outside mosaic was cut, painted, sanded and installed separately. This is the only way to ensure that the wall will look like tiles, otherwise it would blend into one big board and loose the effect. But it`s well worth the effort, looks cool I think.

More pics coming from the shop this time.

P.

Stool and funky finish.

This photo prop-tiny stool was made out of nice pine I used for another project, the entire piece is only 9 inches tall, so no need for much material. But the interesting part is the finish, I have painted all in walnut stain first, let it dry and then applied grey paint over it. When dried, I have used the mouse sander to expose the stain from underneath the grey paint-it does look cool I think.

There are really more ways to achieve this effect than sanding- you can use a wet rug and wipe off the exact amount of paint (before it dries)  to expose the colour from underneath-works great as well-and no dust.

Protective clear coat applied on top.

P.